Kanjeevaram                                             

Gold, silk and tradition all weaved together to make 6 yards of silk, a signature of the land of temples, Kanchi or Kanchipuram, northeast of Tamil Nadu is world famous for kanjeevaram sarees. Originated at the time of the Pallavas and known for the grandeur in design detail and royal rich look, kanjeevaram sarees are highly influenced by the temples of the little temple town. The craftsmanship of yarn dyed mulberry silk, the seamless weaving in hand run looms, a trade that has transpired through generations, a symbol of history, heritage and timeless tradition.

Kanjeevaram sarees are known for their distinct designs, in bold and bright hues with contrasting borders and an elaborate mundani (the end of the saree that loosely drapes on one shoulder) The ancient weaving technique called korvai (in sync) which uses three shuttles with silk threads and interlocking weft giving the pure pattu (silk) a lustrous texture and making the sarees heavy and expensive. Adorning these sarees are typical zari (gold) motifs of paisleys, peacocks, parrots, temples and palaces.

A girl’s trousseau is incomplete without a few treasured kanjeevaram sarees and with each saree comes a story woven around the family and tradition. Specially designed for weddings are auspicious sarees that have real gold woven into an entire saree. ‘Arakku’ (a special shade of red) invariably with a swan and a chakra (wheel) motif is authentic six yards of silk; a saree that still remains a hot favourite for brides.

Draping the saree, an art, time consuming to start with, one soon learns to master with a fair bit of practise and plenty of patience, a saree draped well always complimenting the Indian silhouette. A bride dressed in a traditional kanjeevaram saree in all her finery and fresh jasmine completing her bridal ensemble, is a sight to behold.

Reminiscing a journey made to Kanchipuram, the citadel of silk sarees, vividly I remember the simplicity of the town and industrious folk, watching a weaver working at his loom followed by a delicious and piping hot home cooked vegetarian meal.

Weaving, a time consuming process and depending on the complexity of the designs it could take up to 20 days to weave 6 yards of silk. The mandatory changing of the loom’s threads and pattern after every three sarees weaved, ensures the uniqueness of the saree in its style and design and hence the remote possibility of bumping into a neighbour or friend sporting an identical saree.

Coming from a family with many siblings, many more aunts and uncles and cousins, only meant the extraordinary number of family feasts, festivals and weddings to partake in which in turn meant innumerable and multiple trips shopping for silk. Buying a silk saree was not just another shopping expedition; one never walks into a saree shop just to browse or for a bit of retail therapy, shopping for silk is a much planned event and after a lot of deliberation, a budget fixed, taking into consideration, age and occasion.

Synonymous to silk and invincible Nallis (Chain of stores) needs no introduction, founded in the 1920s by a simple weaver, Nalli Chinnaswamy Chetty, a family business established in South India, Nallis had a humble beginning when a weaver travelled by cycle and bus to sell his precious silks. Now, under the entrepreneurship of their fifth generation, Nallis boosts of exceptional sales and has show rooms in various major cities across India and some internationally too.

I fondly remember the yearly journeys made to Chennai to meet my grandparents, the smell of freshly brewed South Indian filter coffee, my grandmother cooking a meal dressed in her traditional kanjeevaram and the customary visits to Nallis with my mother and the more gullible siblings.

What had been until recently, a tradition for affluent Tamil families, has now found a way into the lives of celebrities, state visits, high-end parties and the red carpet. The likes of Oprah flaunting the flawless silk and Bollywood stars, Rekha and Sri Devi, iconic ambassadors of Kanjeevaram adding glamour to many an award ceremony, has given the 6 yards of silk a much required impetus to sustain the trade and tradition.

After nearly a decade, I am nostalgic to return to Nallis, the pleasure of entering into the familiar outlet, fascinated by colours, feeling the silk and a trip down memory lane. Oddly enough the pleasure of the purchase is not greater than the happiness of many childhood memories woven with this haven of silk. Kanjeevaram, a tradition that I have picked up from my mother and perhaps she from her mother and a hope that this tradition is there to stay.

Note: All words in italics are Tamil, which is the official language of the state of Tamil Nadu, the southern most state of India.

Chennai (previously known as Madras): Capital of Tamil Nadu

Kanchipuram: A small town in Tamil Nadu

Kanjeevaram: Sarees woven in Kanchipuram